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It is ancient Thailand at its most mystical, marooned in the trappings of modern cities everywhere, a haze of traffic fumes, blaring horns and huge groups of Chinese tourists trying to preserve their pallor under umbrellas. The Royal Palace, Bangkok's VersaillesCredit:Getty I managed to show the family the Bangkok I remembered as we took a boat along the quiet canals and back waters off the bustling Chaopraya river; past traditional wooden houses teetering above the waterline on rickety stilts, women stoking woks on charcoal burners on lacework balconies hanging out precariously over the water, watched by unblinking monitor lizards basking in storm drains. We strolled through the flower market open twenty four seven with new mounds of jasmine and rose petals arriving every few minutes, piled high in baskets tied onto the back of spluttering mopeds. I showed the children the array of alien herbs and vegetables on offer at the grocery market, with local shoppers picking through dozens of varieties of ruby red radishes, aromatic stalks and leaves, knobbly roots and huge piles of garlic. And I feasted on the one thing I’d been longing to eat since I was last in Thailand – mango and sticky rice wrapped in banana leaf. It has the magical combination of sweet and salty, sharp and unctuous that you only find here. It was just as wonderful as I remembered. The kids wouldn’t touch it. Three days was enough for me in Bangkok all those years ago, and it was no different now. It’s like living in the mosh pit of the noisiest rock concert with the best acts and the most spectacular light show. To recover from our sensory overload, we headed south to the island of Koh Samui. Last time I arrived by boat as there was no airport and I stayed in a hut on the beach as there were no hotels. I wasn’t seeking to recreate that particular idyll and was very happy to get on a plane and turn up at our beachside hotel on the northeast coast of the island.
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